Hornby R070 00 Gauge Turntable Electric

Product Information

I was planning to use a 2-pole centre-off switch with a supply of suitable voltage, once I have got the motor in and tested to see what it needs. The special worms are also available....just need a worm puller to remove existing worm....and a method of fitting new worm without damaging the motor.... I would like to ensure that an outlet spur is only live when the turntable is in the correct position for that

I, too, have just bought and installed a Hornby Turntable. I think you have made two conflicting statements in your post... IF, I wire one rail to + and one to - then surly when I turn the table by 180 degrees, I will get a direct short. Yes?"I will see how much noise a new motor makes at reduced voltage once I get one, and assess whether I can live with it. Otherwise I will play with bits of flannelette in carefully selected spots inside (wouldn't want it to get into the gears or motor!). Given the very low duty cycle of the motor, I wouldn't have thought heat build-up would be too much of an issue (but we'll see). I realise that my loco's (motor or lights) will not operate until the turntable is in the correct position but I prefer it like that." If you I'm tempted to get a R070 Turntable for a Thomas based kiddies layout, which will be controlled via DCC.

The Round Hole part is the one that was desighned for the Electric Motor Operated version of theTurntable. (Only Elecric Motor Operated versions have been made for many years now...including the current issue). The Hornby method of conversion is a bit brutal and will invalidate the guarantee. There are a few different ways of converting for DCC and may not require removal of the bridge From my point of view, I run my trains via Railmaster programs, including the movement of the turntable. I prefer to be as automated as possible so that I can enjoy watching the trains, rather than spend a lot of time and mental energy controlling them myself. But as I say, that is only my personal preference. The next potential problem for DCC is that half the outlet positions are at reversed polarity to the inlet. This is due to the way the connections are made to the bridge under the turntable and you can look up Brian Lambert for an explanationconnection has the polarity reversed (my reference was to a reversing loop situation in my original post), then there is still an isolation issue. But a simple gapping still has the problem of a loco shorting over it as it passes surely? That gets me to outlets. Your system will be fine on these where they are not connected elsewhere in the layout. If they are connected elsewhere and that The problem with sound-proofing is that you could then cut the ventilation to the motor...which could then get a bit warm... Very late X.04 locomotive motors were in fact the X.03 (Later Type) motor specification, but fitted with the Brass two-start worm...

I am thinking of putting a building over the motor housing....possibly a 'sand house' with a chimney for ventilation...or a Water Tower with vents? The square hole is for the square 'pin' on the end of the "Water Crane" to engage in...turning the Wayer Crane operated the turntable... to them continues to do so and the isolation continues to avoid shorts during rotation. All you need to be aware of is outlet polarity on the reversed polarity outlets and getting that correct with respect to layout polarity.The Square Hole part is the one you would need for a Hand Operated version of theTurntable (Hand Operated versions have not been made for many years now...) If you do not put the Water Crane in position, there is nothing to stop the Square Hole pinion being used with an electic motor drive...