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They also often use a wooden wedge to hold the stem in place (although thumb screws are also common). These are adjusted by light taps of a mallet, which can take a while to master. Below is a very early ‘ Anchor‘ marked #2118 Rosewood Mortice gauge with a brass slide and full faced brass wear surface. Note the circular brass head insert with an included cup-shaped brass washer. Here is the section of the 1846‘Broadsheet’ that shows the Gauges that were available. This sheet shows no images so it is hard to guess how some of these tools looked. [Gauge, Rowters, per set of 8 ?] The Mortice Gauge #2120 [above 3 photos] and below, seems to be the bog standard for Mortice gauges as it lasted for eons [ c.1861-c1965<]. It had everything……Rosewood; ‘Fancy’ Head; plated Head; Thumbscrew operation; and was a ‘Combination’ gauge. I have noted that the earlier ones had the ‘fancier’ brass inserts [more delicate with smaller screws… photo below here]
In the 1897 Catalogue this below Mortice Gauge was numbered #650, but was re-numbered #2116 in the 1909 Cat. It was a Rosewood, Plain Head, with Brass shield and a Pull Slide and was available… 1873-1928 Whether you bought one of the best marking gauges recommended above or have an antique, you’ll want to sharpen the pins before using it on any major projects. The photo below shows that when the ‘Fancy’ insert screws were changed to Phillips, the Thumbscrew had no knurling. There seems to be such variation in the Brass slide castings around this time. Second from Right has Phillips on Stem and Brass head ‘plates’, but Slot screws for the ‘Fancy’ insert.I’ve used both, and while knives do a better job cutting clean lines, there isn’t a major difference in daily use. Either one will work just fine for nearly any joinery, and which one is right for you will depend on your budget more than anything else. Ultimately, while they make great collection pieces and give great results, there’s no reason to favor a Japanese marking gauge over a western one. Personal preference will play a big part here, but don’t expect any miracles either way. Can I use the same gauges for metalworking?