Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Contrast Guilliman Flesh (18ml), 9918996002306

Product Information

Since the Contrasts are all for intents and purposes glorified inks, and they work by staining on the high areas and gathering in the low areas, the color of primer underneath is just there to facilitate that. As long as the primer is light enough, the Contrasts at least in my opinion tend to "overcome" most of the differences between like a light gray primer vs. a light tan primer or white primer. In other words, because of how Contrasts work Zenithal might be a waste of time. The Contrasts kind of already do on their own what Zenithal and shade washes would do. What I'm looking for is a substitute spray which looks as close to wraithbone as possible, or rather produces the same tone after I put on the colours.

Contrary to what many pots of paint would have you believe, there is no single “skin tone”. The reason for this is because human skin is a complex, multilayered structure and derives its colour as a sum of its components, much of which is constantly in flux in life. Skin is translucent and “skin colour” is largely a combination of the colours present within the skin – the pigment melanin, red of blood and yellow of fat. If you have had the misfortune of seeing a corpse, then you can observe the sallow cast that develops – the loss of blood from the skin on death leads to a loss of ‘red’, leaving the melanin and fat behind. Glaze 4:1 Carroburg Crimson:Khorne Red heavily thinned on flushed areas, then retouch final highlight Actually, you don’t necessarily need Games Workshop’s Grey Seer and Wraithbone primers – in fact, any light basecoat will do. I successfully tested Corax White or Matt White Color Primer from The Army Painter. I've had contrast colours work just fine on corax white and as far as I know the primers of other companies are already smoother that gw's cw, which is where that issue comes from.http://www.wargamesfoundry.com - also do a range of similar to Citadel paints, will update when can get chance. I put down a solid basecoat of the color I want the shadows to be. On anything bigger than a face, you will definitely need two thin coats. On a face you may be able to get away with one, but probably not. This shadow color doesn’t need to be either one of your paint colors. For a darker caucasian color, I might go with a basecoat of pure Khardic Flesh. For a lighter color, the base coat might have a pretty significant portion of Sand in it. The same two paints can do a variety of shades. The Contrast spray primers also come with matching base paint versions. I tested Wraithbone and as you can see, the result is pretty close. However, even though Wraithbone is a base paint, the coverage is as you would expect from a light, almost white bone colour – not that great. It took me about 6 or 7 thin layers for perfect coverage over a medium grey primer. Because of the number of layers, I had to apply the result wasn’t perfectly smooth and I noticed the Contrast paint dried noticeably more uneven. Contrast paints really benefit from a perfectly smooth base coat. Experimenting with Contrast paints & Contrast Medium Mix your Cadian with a dab of Ushbati Bone (about 3:1) and highlight the raised areas (those that would catch the light). Then add a little more Ushbati and do it again, but on slightly smaller areas that are more prominent. Keep doing this until you’re at 1:1 Cadian: Ushbati.

With regard to Zenithal, I've never personally done it yet but I actually plan to with an upcoming orc army. I'm planning on doing White Zenithal over a gray primer and use Ork Flesh Contrast over all the skin, or maybe Astra Militarum Green. I think the Contrasts could work really well over Zenithal. Although I could also see maybe having to dilute some of the darker Contrasts because they may not ideally show up if the Zenithal has a lot of darker gray behind it. I'm thinking about going fully experimental and also buy vallejo desert sand or something similar, for a zenithal sand -> skeleton bone -> bone white. Do you think this will be worth a try? Having said that, like washes, Contrast paints work best on models with a lot of texture, organic details like fur, hair, scales, muscles, clothes with a lot of creases, segmented armour and the like. This tutorial assumes you have a good understanding of how to paint. Underneath each picture are the corresponding instructions. Each step shows the paint(s) I used during that step.Also do you have a tip for an easy to achieve (i.e. contrast level of lazyness) piggy/salmon pink? I've tried the lighter contrast pink, but even heavily thinned with contrast medium the tone is way to purple overall and in the recesses. With a wash of fuegan orange over that I've had moderate success. Maybe something over a fleshtone would be better. Contrast paints are great at tinting metallic colours. When applied with an airbrush, they act like transparent filters. When the basecoat is smooth, most Contrast paints will dry with a surprisingly smooth and even finish. However, like washes, Contrast paints still have a tendency to pool on larger flat surfaces. Soak up any excess paint with a clean brush to reduce the amount of pooling. The four models in the Chosen Axes represent four individual named characters from Fyreslayers lore: Fjul Grimnir, the leader and a legendary Runefather of the Volstarg Lodge; Tefk Flamebearer, a Vulkite Berserker and second in command of the Chosen Axes; and Vol Orrukbane and Mad Maegrim, both Vulkite Berserkers. The pigments used for Contrast paints are really strong and vibrant. In comparison to Citadel Shades or other washes, Contrast Paints have a slightly higher viscosity, which means they are not as “runny”. I recommend washing your brushes a lot when using them, as the heavily pigmented paint easily creeps up into the ferrule of your brush, where it might dry and make short work of the bristles.

Contrast paints need to be thinned with Contrast Medium, as water will make them lose their unique properties. They can be mixed with each other, with washes (or even regular paint, but this will change their properties, too). Glaze cheeks of type I and II skin to provide the blush – this always develops due to sun damage to the exposed cheeks. A faint tint is sufficient, don’t deepen with more layers it unless you want your model to be wearing makeup. Let’s move on with our Citadel Contrast review. Along with the 34 shades of Contrast Games Workshop also sells two types of spray primers with a matching base paint: Grey Seer, which is a light grey (similar to Ulthuan Grey), and Wraithbone, a light bone colour (similar to Terminatus Stone). Advertised to have a special formula best suitable for Citadel Contrast paints, these primers have a slightly smoother, more satin finish. The smoother finish helps to reduce the surface tension of the paint, so the pigments will better run into the recesses and reduce the amount of pooling (slightly). This effect will also benefit washes like Citadel Shade paints by the way. Unfortunately I've already started painting and spraying stuff with wraithbone, otherwise I would simply go with an alternative which is cheaper and better available. Contrast paints have very vibrant pigments and create a lot of “tonal variety”: recesses are suitable dark, pronounced areas lighter. Therefore, with a single layer of Contrast, you can combine basecoating and shading in a single step and will often end up with some basic highlights as well.My other thought is that with doing a double Zenithal, you might actually get better results using Citadel shades or Army Painter shades over it, for the simple fact that those shades are much weaker than Contrasts and the Zenithal will show up much, much better under them. Regarding zenithal: I keep reading that it supposedly works very well with Contrast colors. I assume you have to dillute them a bit for that purpose. So it is something I would try with bigger miniatures and bigger surfaces, where Contrasts themselves would seem to be less efficient. Regiments I will probably undercoat with a single color, depending on the miniatures. Those two talk a lot about all kinds of theory and blending and so on. But I’ll level with you: I didn’t learn to paint skin in art classes, I learned to paint skin on minis, so my approach is a little different. The idea of painting over white primer or a white zenithal highlight with glazes and washes isn’t new but an approach often used by competition level painters. But the real “genius” of Games Workshop was to turn this technique into an easy and satisfying product for the masses.

I'm with you on the "airbrush look", I'm not a fan of it either. I much rather prefer washes and dry brushes over other colors. so the short answer to all of the Zenithal stuff is that you would probably have to heavily dilute the Contrasts to make them really work over Zenithal. You can do that of course, but at that point you're really just using the Contrasts as ordinary washes or inks. I would personally just get like Army Painter washes and inks instead.

Bone, Metal and More!

Glaze 4:1 Reikland Fleshshade:Khorne Red heavily thinned on flushed areas, then retouch final highlight First up, I use a lot of paint mixes, but they’re to get specific shades in particular ratios, and I don’t do much blending. Second, I use a lot of Citadel shade paints and also glazes on my skin work. Thirdly, I have recipes for you to follow, because I’m a lazy arse who mostly paints skin the same way each time. You could even experiment with painting the darker Contrast over “medium” base colours, for example, Wyldwood (dark brown) over Baneblade Brown (medium khaki/light brown) for a really deep dark brown. Or mix your Contrast paints with a lot of Contrast Medium or Lahmian Medium to use them as a wash or glaze. Personally, I feel Guilliman Flesh produces rather stark results (as do the Fyreslayer Flesh and Darkoath Flesh from my experience). Fine for very muscular and animated faces, but I guess I’d prefer Reikland Fleshshade for the softer shading. Two coats of Reikland Fleshshade are pretty close to a single layer of Guilliman Flesh.